Did you know Estonians are some of the most unhappy people in Europe (according to the Happy Planet Index)? Blame the Nordic climate or centuries of foreign rule. Estonians just have a troubled history, from the 13th century when they were peasants and serfs, to being deported to Siberia in World War II, and working in Russian prison camps after that. The country only recently (1991) gained independence from Russia after being a pawn between Russia and Germany for years.

This is the story I was greeted with at the Estonian history museum, which I visited shortly after I arrived in Tallinn (I ducked in to escape a sudden downpour). The next day, I went to the Museum of Occupations, where I watched old video footage of the war and read about all the different countries that tried to control Estonia. Talk about a depressing summer vacation.

However, I found Tallinn to be a really quaint city and the Estonian people were generally friendly and charming.

The city itself is a beautiful, colorful town on the Baltic sea. The buildings are a gorgeous mixture of Medieval, Baroque, Art Nouveau, in a rainbow of colors. When the sun actually came out, the city was dazzling.

It was almost Like a real life Disney World – in a good way. It wasn’t overly touristy like the tacky Game of Thrones walled city of Dubrovnik in Croatia.

I also ventured out of the city and while most of the houses were run down, there seems to be a vibrant artistic scene. Some of the dilapidated buildings had been turned into restaurants, and there were a few pop-up spaces with cafes where crafters sold their creations.

I bought a dress at the vintage store Les Petites. I wasn’t sure if I really liked it, but I pictured some Estonian woman in the 40s wearing it and that sold it. So as I was checking out, I commented how I decided to buy it because of its charm and all the stories it could tell. That’s when the saleswoman nodded and said, “It’s never been worn before! It was in a warehouse!”

My favorite restaurant was F-Hoone: a huge space with simple grilled food, serve yourself pita bread and water, and ping pong tables outside. The food was good, the atmosphere was even better, and it was perfect for a solo traveler. I usually don’t go out for dinners when I travel alone, but the communal feeling here was really welcoming. If the weather had been more cooperative, I know the outside would have been way more lively than this pic.

After 2 days, I left Tallinn with my “vintage” dress, a bit of depression (having finished Between Shades of Grey, the book I was reading about a Lithuanian family deported to Siberia), and excited for the final leg of my trip – in Riga.