Did you know the only international airport in Bhutan is also one of the most dangerous in the world to fly into?

The airport, like the town of Paro, is nestled in a Himalaya mountain valley, surrounded by 5,000 meter peaks. The valley is just wide and flat enough for a small runway.

Only eight pilots are qualified to land in Paro airport, and the airport is only accessible during daylight and good visibility.

The landing was spectacular and bird-like. It was as if we could reach out and touch the mountains.

 

The airport itself was decorated like the dzongs (fortresses) we visited, and the guides waiting outside wore ghos – the traditional dress for Bhutanese men.

 

Our guide greeted us with our bus for the week, then pulled our suitcases through the back window, as there was no back door (still not sure why we didn’t take our suitcases through the side door).

 

The first day I was in Bhutan, I focused on Samtosa, or contentment: keeping my mind clear of expectations, accepting that what I had in the present moment was all I needed.

I wanted to take everything in.

The people, the nature, the mystery.

I wasn’t focused on the next stop on the schedule, or the next day.

I was just engrossed in the beauty and majesty of this mystical land.

One of the buildings of our resort.

 

Bhutan is a small democratic monarchy (about half the size of the state of South Carolina) in the Eastern Himalayas.

India cradles the nation like a cupped hand, and Tibet borders it on the north.

The kingdom of Bhutan is rooted in tantric (or vajrayana) Buddhism, and as well in shamanism–a way of life involving rituals, deities, mantras, and other spiritual practices. What I find compelling about this discipline is they believe it is possible for anyone to become a Buddha.

A few more interesting facts about Bhutan:

• It was closed to the outside world for centuries.

• It was never colonized, which is huge considering the colonization that happened in the rest of the area.

• The monarchy was established in 1907. The guides frequently referenced Father King, who was the father to the current king. They saw him as a benefactor who took care of his people. The current king is the 4th, and is called the people’s king (he and his queen are also called the Will and Kate of the East). Pictures of the queen and king are everywhere.

 

• There are no traffic lights in the entire country. However, they do have a “traffic cop”.

 

• They worship Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, an Indian tantric master, who is said to have brought Buddhism to the country in the 8th century (he flew in on a tigress from Tibet – more on that later). His image and shrines to him are everywhere. In temples, public buildings – everywhere! I think there’s a competition for who has more images – the king or Guru Rinpoche.

 

• Immigrants from Nepal came into the southern part of the country in the 1970s/80s. They worked to clear malaria infested jungles (a job the Bhutanese didn’t want). The Bhutanese wanted the Nepalis to assimilate, and there was a period of anti-nationalism (by Nepalis) and ethnic cleansing (by Bhutanese) in the 80s. This seems to be the dark spot in Bhutan’s history – a country obsessed with preserving its culture vs the reality of needed immigrants, who brought their own culture into Bhutan.

• The government measures success by Gross National Happiness instead of Gross Domestic Product. GNH includes 9 domains, one of which is to maintain 60% of the country’s natural land. Another domain is maintaining and promoting Bhutanese culture (see last bullet).

• Earlier names for Bhutan include: Southern Land of Medicinal Herbs (I learned that there is at least one herbal/non-traditional medicine doctor in every hospital), Lotus Grove of the Gods, Blooming Valley of Luxurious Fruits, Land of Longing and Silver Pines.

• Both secular education and modern economic development started in the 1960s. A Canadian Jesuit influenced the education system, and Bhutan chose to teach English at that time. Prior to the 60s, the economy was based on bartering – money wasn’t used.

On the first day, we visited Sangchen Choekhor monastery.

The rain and mist added to the atmosphere of sanctity. We arrived at dinner time, while the monks were scurrying to the kitchen for their bowls of curry and rice.

A monk catching the rain water.

 

 

We explored the town by night, with the impressive dzongs lit up over the mountains.