Place des Voges

A garden in the Marais

Fromages, wine, baguettes, quiches, crepes, croissants. I was determined to get a taste of French culture in more ways than one. Although my waistline might not be thanking me, I thoroughly ate up France.
My line at the baguette stand

On this visit, I wanted to stay in Le Marias, the 3^rd arrondissement known for being artsy, eclectic, trendy and full of lively cafes and shops. I booked an apartment through Airbnb right on Rue de Vielle du Temple in the center of the Marais and very close to many of the stores I had read about, or had been recommended from friends. For me, this trip was all about taking it easy, exploring a different side of Paris and shopping for items I can’t get in Germany.

Our cute apartment

Favorite Food: salted caramel and banana crepes with whipped cream from Breizh café

I had read about this café on a blog and was really excited to discover it right across the street from our apartment. On the first night, we boldly walked in and sat down, and got odd looks from the waiter. He told us we couldn’t sit without a reservation. When we went back for brunch the next day, we fatefully got the last seat before they started turning people away. There is no other way to describe the crepe other than it melted in my mouth. It was the ultimate creation of sweet, salty, gooey indulgence. It was one of the best things I have ever tasted.

Favorite Hangout: Marche des Enfants Rouges

I had also read about this market, but didn’t realize it was so close until I stumbled upon it on the second day. Established in the 1600s, it’s the oldest covered market in Paris, and gets its name from an orphanage that used to be in its place (the children wore red clothes, indicating they had been donated by Christian charities).

Such a cool farmers’ market selling fresh fish, veggies, fruit, flowers, along with prepared food from around the world. We ate dinner at a laid back cafe tucked in the corner of the market, and full of locals. We went back there each of the following days to buy produce and sample the baked goods, Mediterranean food and burgers. It was great being able to shop with the locals and experience this side of Paris. My big score was kale that I brought back and have been eating all week (I can’t get it in Germany!).

Favorite Shop: The Gap

Ok, I am slightly joking. Slightly. Yes, I did seek out the Gap and I am not ashamed to admit it. There are no Gaps in Germany. Oddly enough, it is one store that has staple clothes that I miss (after going through a Gap-hating phase in my 20s, I have come to appreciate their selection). So, I took a trip there and picked up a blazer, some khakis and t-shirts. I mean, what else would you get at the Gap?

Favorite Parisian shop: Sens Unique

I was looking for a perfume my French perfumer friend had told me about. On the first day, I looked up the address and walked around in circles until I found it. It ended up being the headquarters office,  not a retail store. I did a little more research and discovered a small perfume store a few blocks from the apartment. This shop was full of unique scents (hence the name) and perfumes that I had never heard of (or smelled) before. I went with a perfume in mind but ended up getting a spritz on each wrist and one on my upper arm to smell and decide which was best on me. I went back the next day to purchase my favorite, Aqua Universalis.

The saleswoman told me the bottles were designed with caps that look like the rooftops of Paris and that sold me even more! In addition to my new fragrance, I also got some free samples and other recommendations. What a way to make a girl happy! Magnifique!

Favorite Activity: Bike ride to Musee d’Orsay and night cruise on the Seine

This is a tie for me. During the day, we rented bikes and went to the Orsay Museum to check out the amazing impressionist collection The museum was also a tip from a friend (thanks Kristina!) and I was not disappointed, especially after being let down by the Picasso Museum still being closed. The Orsay was less crowded and less overwhelming than the Louvre, with truly remarkable works of Impressionist art. I loved the Renoir and Manet selections. Getting a little culture on is always a good thing.

Later that evening, Brenda booked us an evening cruise on the Seine. Although I don’t love typical touristy activities, it sounded like a fun idea. It was nice, cheap, with amazing views of the city. Afterward, we ended up going to Quai de la Gare area, where we discovered tons of restaurants and bars and a lively crowd of locals on the banks of the Seine. This place is on my hangout list for next time.

Favorite Accident: Park des Buttes Chaumont

I say that this was an accident because we took 4 metros to go to Rosa Bonheur, an old bar and dance hall very much off the beaten path. We enjoyed the warm, sunny weather, grabbed some drinks and snacks and hung out.

Then we decided to explore the park. We stumbled upon waterfalls, bridges and sweeping views of the sunset and Sacre Coeur in the distance. It was like being in one of those Impressionist paintings at the Orsay museum.

What a great trip! And I’d say a success for my travel goals. Next week is Barcelona with Ben and Alana. More great food and great friends?! I’m ready. But Paris…sigh…ever since I left, all I can think about is going back.