Brenda’s back from her week of European travel and we decided to take a day trip to Nuremberg. It’s only 2 hours by train and I had been interested in going for a while.
It’s described as being the most German of all German cities; that and its central location are why it was chosen as the site for the annual Nazi rallies. I would say it’s most famous for hosting the first international trials for war crimes and crimes against humanity after the war.
But sometimes I forget how European history doesn’t start with WWII. Nuremberg rose to importance in the 1000s and became the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire. It was the center of the German Renaissance and became one of the most prosperous towns in southern Germany before the war.
Like many of the towns I’ve visited in Germany, Nuremberg was bombed very heavily in the war, so there’s only a small old town, most of which has been rebuilt in the traditional German style we’re used to seeing in pictures. I can’t help but think of how beautiful the architecture in these towns would be if it hadn’t been destroyed. It’s kind of sad.
Our day started with a trip to the Nazi documentation center, which is a museum that was built in the remains of the Nazi Congress Hall–a massive, forum-style building that was planned to hold large-scale rallies. The museum documents the rise of the National Socalist party and the role of Nuremberg in their meetings. We also visited Zepplin field. You might be familiar with it from the old black and white videos where all the soldiers gathered to listen to Hitler. This marble arena was massive, the size of 12 football fields. When the US troops got to Nuremberg, they blew up the huge swastika on top of the building to symbolize the fall of the Nazis.
Whew.
After such a heavy morning, we ventured into the town to get a taste of the Medieval history.
Of course there was a festival going on.
We got lost in the old castle and sampled some of the mini bratwurst. We strolled the cobblestone streets and checked out the different merchant tents. We also stopped for a bite at a restaurant on the moat surrounding the town.
But it was hard to forget all of the videos we had seen and stories we had heard at the documentation center. There’s something haunting that stays with you in some of these towns that were so affected by the war.
As night fell on the town, we discovered small streets with people eating and drinking outside.
We took the late train back to Frankfurt. Another town, more history. Getting to know this country is truly fascinating and very much a time of growth and learning.